Wednesday, November 25, 2009
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By Owner, Window Bonnets
11/25/09The Window Bonnets cornice kit using the standard endcaps will stand out from the wall a full 5". Normally this is sufficient space to allow your verticals to turn all the way around without touching the back of the cornice. However, in some instances, this may not be enough--perhaps you have verticals and some kind of drapes mounted, or perhaps just the drapes alone require more than the 5". In these cases, we had a great adjustable bracket that actually could slide out in quarter inch increments to a maximum of 7.5". Unfortunately, our vendors prices now prohibit the manufacturing of this type of bracket. So today's message is how to mount your cornice using the standard 5" bracket but achieve a distance from the wall at say 6" or even 7".The brackets come with two screws and two screw sleeves, these sleeves would be used if you were mounting only into the dry wall and not a wood stud or the metal edge generally found around most windows. Well now those sleeves can also be used to secure what I will call your "extra depth spacer" piece. We recommend that you cut a piece of wood, approximately 2.75" x 2" x . Mark the wall where you would actually mount the 5" bracket. Place the wood "spacer" piece centered over this mark. Drill two holes approximately .5" from the outer edges and center of the height of the "spacer". Use the screw sleeves in the wall for these holes (if you have not hit a wood stud or the metal rim of the window casing) so the screws holding the spacer will be tight and secure to the wall. Mount the bracket to the "spacer" piece as usual. Your cornice will now sit this additional distance from the wall. Remember to add this extra amount to the endcap so they hit the wall thus closing the cornice box.This economy has presented many challenges for everyone and this is one way we are trying to keep our product economical yet flexible for all needs. As always happy decorating and keep those pictures coming in! We love to show your ideas.
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
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By Owner, Window Bonnets
The Window Bonnets cornice kit is decorated by cutting three strips of fabric (your choice, any fabric will work) to cover the top, middle, and bottom contours. Match your floors, your walls, your couch, your rooms can only be enhanced by your choices. This blog will give you some tips and tricks about measuring and calculating your required fabric strips for the design you have chosen.You will be using fabric strips to cover each contour of your window cornice.To determine the length of your fabric strips
Smooth look:
Take the width of your Window plus 27”.
Gathered look:
Take the width of your Window plus 27 and multiply that by 2 to 3 depending on how “full” you want the look to be. NOTE: 3 times the width works best with thin materials. Thick materials work best at 2 times.
Pleated look:
Take the Window plus 20” and multiply by 3. Pleating takes more fabric than the other looks.
To determine the width of your fabric strips
Check the Diagram below for the height cornice you have purchased to determine the width of your strips.
In addition for a ...
Smooth look:
When using a very light-weight fabric you may want to cut it adding 1 1/2” even 2” to the asurement so when you tuck it into the groove it makes for a tighter fit. With heavier fabrics (i.e. upholstery or drapery fabric) the 1” should be wide enough. Sometimes you will need to trim that down just a little also. But do any extra trimming of the strip after you have it tucked into one side of the cornice.
Gathered look:
Add up to 3” to the measurement shown on the applicable cornice diagram depending on how puffy you want the gathers to look.
Pleated look:
Add only 1” to the measurement shown on the applicable cornice diagram.
Fabrics with patterns If you are using fabric with a pattern preventing you from cutting strips the length of your cornice, either “match” the pattern or use a decorative touch to cover it.
Fabric Strip Hints
To match lightweight patterned fabrics use the fusible tape and overlap 1/2”, press to fuse so the seam does not come apart. To match heavier patterned fabrics, take a piece of lightweight material, cut 1 1/2” length and the width of the pattern material. Place this piece on an ironing surface, and cover with the fusible tape. Now trim the patterned fabric edge cleanly and “butt” fit the two pieces together over the lining material. Press carefully to fuse. Once up these seams will be invisible.
Other Bits & Pieces
When decorating your cornice, cover the top and bottom rolls first, the middle second, and the back last if covering that part. Generally speaking it is a bit more difficult to work with very thin fabrics as they do not hold tight in the tuck groove. In the center tuck grooves the double material thickness usually holds both tightly. But where the material seems loose (in the back tuck groove), get some cording at the hardware store that is a bit thicker than the tuck groove. After tucking the fabric, push the cord into the groove to hold it tight.
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
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By Owner, Window Bonnets
Now that you have purchased your cornice board kits and have determined what window treatments you want, it is time to start the assembly process.
The first step is to get an accurate measurement of the width you need for your project. Measure between the widest two points (either the actual window or the rod length if your cornice board is covering vertical blinds mounted on the wall). Add 1-2 inches on either side to insure that the completed cornice will sit solidly on the wall.
After you have measured twice you are ready to go. First lay out the straight pieces and measure using the measurement you determined in the previous process. Mark the last straight piece to get the exact width you want.
Now let’s start the actual cutting process. Normally you will only need to make one cut per each cornice board you are creating. The next question is what do I use to cut the foam? The following lists the most popular tools to use:
= Hot wire cutter (makes a smooth cut and reseals the foam at the same time, not the most economical tool if you only need one cut. About $20 at JoAnns).
= Any serrated blade knife.
= Hack saw blade.
Let’s cut. Carefully cut the foam using one of the tools above. Once the cut has been made you need to reseal the foam so it glues together correctly. Take the piece with cut end and place a piece of aluminum foil over the end. Use you steam iron and gently tap the foil along the cut (can also use the iron to sooth or level out the foam if your cut was not exactly even). Once this is done pull the foil of the foam and you cut is complete.
Now you are ready to glue the pieces together to create your cornice board kit and you will be ready to decorate.
Come back for future Blogs for addition ideas and tips to create that perfect window décor you have dreamed of. You can also visit http://www.windowbonnets,com/ for further details and watch the instructional video for the entire cornice board assembly process.
Wednesday, November 04, 2009
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By Owner, Window Bonnets
The first step in the assembly of your cornice kit is to measure the window to be covered. Measure the actual window size or if it has trim around it measure the width to the outside of the trim. If the window to be covered has vertical blinds mounted on the wall, measure the width of the actual rod the blinds are mounted on.
Once you have determined the width add one-two inches on either side to be sure you will clear the window/rod and that the end caps will be flush against the wall.
Now you are ready to start the assembly process. First lay out the straight pieces provided in your kit. Mark the last piece so that the total length of the cornice board matches the measurement you have determined in the previous step. Now cut the last piece where you have marked it and cut the piece (cutting and sealing the foam will be covered in a future Blog).
Now you are ready to complete the assembly process. Use a full size LOW temperature glue gun (not a mini glue gun or you won’t be able to get enough in time to seal the pieces together) and start gluing the straight pieces together (CAUTION: do not use a hot glue gun or you will melt the foam).
Once the straight piece is glued together re-measure the piece to insure it is the desired length (measure twice).
Now we are ready for the final step. Use you glue gun to attach the two provided end caps…now your cornice board is complete and ready to decorate.
It’s that easy and that fun and you did it yourself.
No wood, no sewing, just be creative.
Jan
