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The standard Window Bonnets cornice kit comes with 5” brackets. Well over 75% use this bracket and all is well. Another 20% or so use the 3” brackets. This number seems to be growing.
If your window has verticals mounted on the outside, or a drapery rod with sheers or drapes, then the 5” bracket is a must to clear the verticals and drapes so they are not crushed behind the cornice. If there is nothing over your window or the mount of blinds or verticals is inside the window well, then you might want to consider the 3” bracket for your cornice.
But for some a more creative mount is required. Several times I have been asked about mounting at 7” and even here recently at 4”. For both my best suggestion is to mount a piece of wood to the wall that is the thickness you need then mount the bracket to the piece of wood. Just remember to cut the end cap or add to it an appropriate amount so the end cap hits the wall once the cornice is pushed on the bracket.
And then there is Anne. She lives in a nice park model on the outer edge of a golf course. She was adamant about have them mounted directly to the wall. The only thing is that just around the window was trim piece that stuck out ¼”. Just laying the cornice form on the wall would have it sitting at an angle. That’s when I took a stroll through Lowes and found a quarter inch thick by 2” wide wall board strip and some industrial strength Velcro. Yes, I said Velcro.
We came back and mounted the board above the window about 1” down from where the top of the cornice was to hit. Then we mounted one side of the Velcro to the board. The other side we used our low temp glue gun to mount it to the back of the cornice. The typical sticky back of the Velcro does not hold well to Styrofoam but using just a bit of the low temp glue and it was on to stay. Once the cornice was decorated, it was pressed to the Velcro strip and Wal…la the cornice was on the wall and level from top to down over the window edge.
If your window has verticals mounted on the outside, or a drapery rod with sheers or drapes, then the 5” bracket is a must to clear the verticals and drapes so they are not crushed behind the cornice. If there is nothing over your window or the mount of blinds or verticals is inside the window well, then you might want to consider the 3” bracket for your cornice.
But for some a more creative mount is required. Several times I have been asked about mounting at 7” and even here recently at 4”. For both my best suggestion is to mount a piece of wood to the wall that is the thickness you need then mount the bracket to the piece of wood. Just remember to cut the end cap or add to it an appropriate amount so the end cap hits the wall once the cornice is pushed on the bracket.
And then there is Anne. She lives in a nice park model on the outer edge of a golf course. She was adamant about have them mounted directly to the wall. The only thing is that just around the window was trim piece that stuck out ¼”. Just laying the cornice form on the wall would have it sitting at an angle. That’s when I took a stroll through Lowes and found a quarter inch thick by 2” wide wall board strip and some industrial strength Velcro. Yes, I said Velcro.
We came back and mounted the board above the window about 1” down from where the top of the cornice was to hit. Then we mounted one side of the Velcro to the board. The other side we used our low temp glue gun to mount it to the back of the cornice. The typical sticky back of the Velcro does not hold well to Styrofoam but using just a bit of the low temp glue and it was on to stay. Once the cornice was decorated, it was pressed to the Velcro strip and Wal…la the cornice was on the wall and level from top to down over the window edge.
Cheers,
Jan
